We left Rancho Europa on Feb. 6th. There had been a big snowstorm a few days earlier, so we hiked down our snowy driveway to our car, which we had been unable to drive up to the house. We flew to Phoenix so that Clark could attend the MESSENGER Science Team meeting at ASU. On Friday the 10th, we began our American Airlines itinerary (Phoenix to Miami, Miami to Guayaquil; return on Feb. 19th, Guayaquil to Miami, Miami to Denver), which was all upgraded to First or Business class because Clark had received 4 oneway systemwide upgrades in 2011 for reaching the 4 million mile mark on the AAdvantage program.
We arrived at the Hilton Colona hotel in Guayaquil after midnight, due to delays in Miami, and had to be up for breakfast by 6 a.m. in order to catch the group flight to Baltra in the Galapagos. Our tour of the islands was on the National Geographic Endeavour, along with 84 other passengers and a crew of about 70. Our cabin had twin beds and was on the uppermost deck with living quarters (there were two decks above ours, with lounge, bar, fitness room, swimming pool, library, etc.). Carlos Romero was the expedition leader, announcing times to disembark for a hike, snorkeling trip, or whatever, and leading an evening recapitulation of the day's activities and a preview of the next day's activities. There were about seven naturalists on board, welleducated and personable Ecuadorians. They led groups of 15 or less (by national park rules) on the various activities. (The Ecuadorian government is becoming more and more strict concerning the number of tourists who visit the islands so as to preserve the vegetation and wildlife. This was important for us to find out and we applaud their approach.) We took zodiacs from the ship to the shore, prepared for either dry landings or wet landings...always outfitted with lifevests.
The weather was generally beautiful and the water temperature was perfect. There was only one rainy afternoon. We were in "civilization" on one day (not counting the airport arrivals and departure), when we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station in the largest settlement in the Galapagos. Otherwise, we were in totally wild country (or in the water) with the extremely tame animals. We both took lots of photos with our cameras, and a few underwater shots with an underwater camera. We got to meet a number of the other passengers. There was a "small world" phenomenon: a family of three was also from Nederland, Colorado (we didn't know them before), and a family of four included a planetary scientist who works at JPL. Here briefly is our itinerary in the islands:
Sat. 11 Feb. 2012: Land at Baltra airport, embark National Geographic Endeavor. Hike along shore of Las Bachas on Santa Cruz (crabs, birds), followed by swim.
Sun. 12 Feb. 2012: Hike on North Seymour Island (frigate birds, etc.). Afternoon snorkeling at Rabida Island (swimming with sea lions, stings from small jelly fish). Late afternoon scenic hike up a hill and past a lagoon on Rabida (hawk, sea lions).
Mon. 13 Feb. 2012: Hike at Punta Espinoza on Fernandina Island (fresh lava flows, numerous marine iguanas, cormorants). Afternoon, zodiac cruise at Punta Vicenta Roca, Isabela Island (rays, penguins, heron, sea turtles, boobies, cormorants, beautiful cave). Sunset: equator crossing celebration.
Tues. 14 Feb. 2012: Hike at Urbina Bay, Isabela Island (giant tortoises, land iguanas, upthrust fossil coral reef). Afternoon: deep water snorkeling at Tagus Cove, Isabela Island (we didn't take "fast hike" up to volcanos). Evening: wedding on deck.
Weds. 15 Feb. 2012: Santiago Island. Prebreakfast walk from Playa Espumilla through large trees with very tame birds. Glass bottom boat trip near Buccaneer Cove. Afternoon: fine snorkeling from a lovely beach at Puerto Egas (sea lions, sharks, sea turtles). Evening: BBQ on deck; we sat at the table of the "birthday girl."
Thurs. 16 Feb. 2012: Santa Cruz Island. Charles Darwin Research Station (tortoises of all sizes and ages, including Lonesome George the last of his species). Visit to coffee/sugar cane mill, then lunch at "Altair". Afternoon: rainy walk to see tortoises at highland ranch. Evening: Music and dance performed by Ecuadorians from town.
Fri. 17 Feb. 2012: San Cristobal Island. Morning hike 1/3rd of the way up picturesque Punta Pitt to see nesting redfooted boobies and great scenery, followed by cooloff swim and neighboring sea lion. Early afternoon: Y's massage. Later afternoon: snorkeling around Kicker Rock and through channel between two parts of the spectacular rock. Then champagne toast as ship circled Kicker Rock, followed by Captain's farewell cocktail. (We chose not to go into the town capitol of Galapagos in the evening.)
Sat. 18 Feb. 2012: Early departure after breakfast to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Town and its airport for flight back to Guayaquil.
Best Galapagos Slides, Chapman Trip, Feb. 2012
View of volcanic island as we land at Baltra
Baltra airport
Our cabin on the Endeavour
Bluefooted booby on Santa Cruz
Zodiacs arriving on Santa Cruz
Pelican
Oystercatcher
Marine iguana
Sally Lightfoot crabs
Sanderling
Booby in flight
Swallowtailed gulls on North Seymour Island
Swallowtailed gull
Frigate bird chick
Frigate bird in flight
Juvenile frigate bird
Land iguana
Male frigate bird
Juvenile frigate bird on branch
Young sea lion
Yellow warbler
Waves crashing ashore on North Seymour
Children playing with sea lion
Hawk
Dinner buffet
Bob and Marilyn Hopkins from Indiana
Y coming ashore on Fernandina, Punta Espinoza
Marine iguanas
Lizard
Cactus
Marine iguana in a crack in the lava
Another group from our ship exploring Fernandina
Male marine iguana
Young sea lion getting milk from mother
Cormorant
Green sea turtle off Isabela Island
Blue heron
Penguins
Booby
Sea cave
Two rays near the water's surface in the sea cave
Boobies take flight
The Endeavour against the volcanic edifice of Isabela
The bridge
Sunset
Diverse finches
Giant tortoise
Giant tortoise
The moon above the Galapagos
Land iguana going the wrong way
Driedout coral reef, lifted from the sea fifty years ago by an earthquake
Scene inland from shore
Naturalist Xmena Cordova on shore of Isabela
Underwater plant reaching to the surface
Pelicans flying away
Bluefooted boobies
Butterflies
The beach, Isabela
The bridetobe (Skye) sketching the iguana going the wrong way
Lunch
Clark in snorkeling gear
Kayakers
Charlie and Skye being wed by the Captain
Endeavour's crew members
Early morning hike begins on Santiago beach with sea turtle tracks in the sand
Small bird lands on twig
Small bird lands on twig held by naturalist Ceslo Montalvo
View down to the bay
Flower closeup
Cactus tree along trail on Santiago
Tame flycatcher
Heartshaped leaf
Spider in its web with drops of dew
Buccaneer Cove
Practically the only "fish" we saw through glassbottom boat's window
Rock pinnacles
Jeremy and Jennifer Traub
Y in hallway outside our cabin
Clark snorkeling near Puerto Egas, Santiago
Fish and underwater views
The Endeavour at the end of the rainbow
Map of the Galapagos and our route during the first half of our voyage
Twilight, with gleaming Venus and lighthouse
Diana Vagelos blowing out candle on birthday cake
Disembarking from upper level for Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island
Cactus tree near Charles Darwin Research Station
Giant tortoise
Giant tortoise
Unhappy child (William)
Male land iguana reaches arm through hole in screen toward female in adjacent pen
Land iguana
Flower closeup in Darwin Research Station
Lonesome George (last of his kind)
Numbered baby tortoises in Charles Darwin Research Station
Giant cactus
Cactus flower
Carles Darwin statue in city park
"The Rock" cafe (with upsidedown sign)
Roy and Diana Vagelos
Carlos addressing group having lunch at Altair resort restaurant
The naturalists in a huddle, with pile of mudboots at the side
Rainy hike at a ranch to see giant tortoises
Finch in the mud
Group watches giant tortoise
The Endeavour's photographer from Chicago
Punta Pitt on San Cristobal Island
Rock textures along hike up Punta Pitt
Hiking up to plateau on Punta Pitt
View down to the beach
Group on plateau of Punta Pitt
Closeup of abundant plant
Male and female lizards
Lizard on a stick
Naturalist "searching" for redfooted boobies
Redfooted booby sitting on egg in nest under cliff's edge
View on hike back down to beach
Naturalist Antonio with sea lion
Clark at end of beach with male sea lion
Gap between two parts of Kicker Rock
Kicker Rock viewed from the ship
View of Kicker Rock from a different angle
Clark & Y
Y with Diana and Roy
Classic view of Kicker Rock
Sunset
Fanciful cloud illuminated by setting sun
View of setting sun from ship's bow
Clark sitting at the barend of the lounge, awaiting final disembarkation
Our airplane arrives to pick us up at San Cristobal airport
View of Kicker Rock from the air
View of Punta Pitt from the air